Hi! I really want to share this with you because those informations help me a lot to removed misconceptions I had about niacinamide. They were explained (better than me) by a dermatologist, Dr.Dray, that I love. Informations is power. Read and learn more ❤

1. Niacinamide does not cause purging

Purging occurs when there is an increase rate of cell turnover (ex: with retinol, AHA, BHA or Benzoyl peroxide). Niacinamide is not an exfoliant and does not increase the cell turnover. If you are experiencing an increase of acne or redness with niacinamide, its more likely irritation, not purging. There are products on the market with higher % of niacinamide that have more chance to cause irritation. Apparently, some studies proved that 2-5% of niacinamide are more that enough to show improvement on your skin without causing too much irritation. There is a misconception concerning the % of some ingredients: more is not always better. 

2. Niacinamide is stable and can be mixed with other ingredients like vitamin C and retinol

Niacinamide is very stable and doesn’t interact or compromise the efficacy of other active ingredients. Apparently, niacinamide helps to tolerate other ingredients even better by improving moisture retention or with their antioxidant properties by reducing  inflammation and irritation in the skin.

3. You don't need to buy a niacinamide serum to have the benefits of using niacinamide 

On the market, the products available, like niacinamide serum, have a very high % of niacinamide (10 to 20%). Apparently, there are no studies that show in increase of the benefits with an increase of %. Studies were done with 2 to 5% of niacinamide, since higher % have more chance to cause irritation. Those studies proved those % are well absorbed and provide benefits to the skin. Beyond a certain %, ingredient can be no longer effective and don't get into the skin to yield their supposed benefits. In my opinion, the only reason those products are made is marketing: there is a hype around this ingredient and they just want more profit $$$$. Niacinamide is now present and mixed with a lot of products in the market (cleansers, serum, moisturizer) and content a safe, established dose of niacinamide for good benefits. If you have no issues using a high % of niacinamide serum and you love it, it is ok, you can continue using it. But if you use differents products containing niacinamide, it is probably more that enough.

3 myths about niacinamide (Dr.Dray informations)

This stubborn mark was on my skin for months and did not change at all, even with BHA, AHA, tranexamic acid, sulfur, etc. The first week I applied retinol, it became at first more red and inflammed, but finally slowly faded, week after week. It's the only positive progress I noticed for now with my new retinol routine, since I am purging on the rest of my skin :( See you later with more progress. 😘

PIE progress with retinol

Myth #1: Retinol exfoliates skin.

It’s a popular misconception that retinol is an exfoliant. It isn’t. Retinol is an antioxidant, and an important skin-restoring ingredient. It enhances multiple aspects of skin on many levels, making it look healthier, smoother, and more vibrant.

And, while retinol can cause a flaking reaction for some people, this (often temporary) side effect shouldn’t be mistaken for exfoliation. AHAs and BHA help to imperceptibly shed dead skin from its surface. You don’t see or feel healthy, normal exfoliation.

If you do experience flaking from using retinol, it may be that you’re using a retinol product that’s just too potent for your skin or you’re applying the retinol product too often. Switching to a lower strength or applying your current retinol product less often could solve the problem.

Myth #2: You can't use retinol during the daytime.

It’s perfectly fine to use retinol products during the day, as long as you wear sunscreen over them. Research has shown that retinol works well under SPF-rated products, and that vitamins A, C, and E—even in combination—remain stable and effective under a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Remember: Retinol plays its part to help skin look younger, but sunscreen is the first and most formidable defense in helping skin rebuff signs of aging like wrinkles, uneven skin tone, discolorations, and loss of firmness.

Myth #3: You shouldn't combine retinol with vitamin C.

A recent study revealed two important facts: not only did pairing vitamin C and retinol prove effective, but the two worked beautifully together to defend skin against environmental assault when applied under a sunscreen.

The (misguided) concern about combining these ingredients is also based on misconceptions about pH and acidity. Vitamin C, especially ascorbic acid, requires a low pH to remain stable—or no pH, if there isn’t any water in the formula. The result is a more acidic environment, but we know acidity doesn’t deactivate retinol; after all, skin’s pH is naturally acidic, and retinol naturally occurs in skin.

Better yet, research has shown that a combination of vitamins in cosmetics will provide optimal results—including vitamins A (another name for retinol), C, and E. Retinol and vitamin C together actually creates a better environment for retinol by stabilizing it, extending its effectiveness. It turns out that using an antioxidant serum with retinol can help your skin reap all of retinol’s benefits.

Myth #4: You can't use retinol with a leave-on exfoliant.

No research has ever demonstrated or concluded that alpha or beta hydroxy acid (AHA or BHA) exfoliants make retinol any less effective when used in the same skin care routine. It’s just one of those myths that gets repeated so often that people—even many we consider skin care experts—tend to believe it.

Whenever we see a comment or recommendation about retinol’s incompatibility with AHA or BHA exfoliants, it’s never supported by research. What research does show is that using retinol products with an effective AHA or BHA product increases the benefits of each; it doesn’t decrease them. What's more, this combination can be an effective approach suitable even for those dealing with milia-prone skin.

Myth #5: The pH of AHA & BHA Exfoliants reduces retinol's effectiveness.

Well-formulated leave-on exfoliants have a low pH, which is what makes them effective. It’s common for people to wonder if that pH level disrupts retinol’s ability to work its gentle, skin-smoothing magic. Rest assured, it doesn’t.

Just like most skin care rumors, this myth sprang from a misunderstanding about the research. Only one study mentions the issue of pH affecting retinol’s activity, but that study was performed on proteins in a petri dish, not on real skin—and it concluded that it’s unknown if these results would be the same on intact skin.

If anything, AHAs and BHA actually help products deliver their vitally important ingredients (like retinol) by removing the dead skin that limits their absorption.

5 Retinol Myths : Paula's choice publication

Hi everyone!
I sure I'm not the only one, but it is very hard for me to find a nice sunscreen for my acne-prone skin/sensitive skin. I reacted very badly to a lot of different sunscreen (cheap or expensive): my skin burns (a lot) and become very sensitive with a massive oil/pimple production all over my face. It feels like I'm doing an allergic reaction sometime. Do you have a similar reaction? I am usually not very sensitive for any other kind of product. What sunscreen(s) works for you? Please share your favorite products, thanks!😚

Sunscreen for Acne/sensitive skin

Hi! I am having a hard time to find a nice moisturizer that will leave my skin well hydrated without causing me any breakouts (non-comedogenic, fungal acne safe). It can help treat my acne, but my first concern for a moisturizer is hydratation. I don't hate the products I am using (tagged products), but I am pretty sure I can find better. Maybe some koreen moisturizer? Drop your favorite here please 💞

Best moisturizer for dehydrated and acne-prone skin

I prefer mineral sunscreen. I don&#39;t react much with this one, but it can burn a bit if my skin is irritated.

Lightweight, not greasy or shiny. Good protection.

My skin was so shiny with this! The color get easily stuck in dry patches on my skin and my skin get bit itchy at the end of the day. I breakout 2 days after using this, I am not 100% sure it was the cause of it, but I did not really like the product anyway.

Lightweight, my skin did not get irritated with this. Come with a light coverage, can replace your foundation on a daily use.

Nothing so far. I don&#39;t use it for the first application on my full face.

Do not smell, burn or taste bad. Perfect to protect sensitive area like your eyes, lips and ears. Also good for a reapplication on the go.

I started to use this product during the pandemic since I had an increase of redness, acne and clogged pores, specialy on my chin. I really want to like it, but I did not noticed any significant improvment on my skin, at least not enough. Will try a koreen serum instead.

The texture is nice, don&#39;t leave irritated or sticky. I used this twice a day for weeks and it did not dry my skin at all. Nice compromise between treatment and hydratation.

It peels :( not that much, but if you want to apply makeup, it is not the best.

Lightweight
Minimal to zero white cast
Hydrating
No breakout for me
Good protection 
Content multiple good ingredients 

Cath4th